Saturday, July 21, 2007

Saturday, July 21, 2007: Ostaad Elahi, Glass Master


Master Elahi's glass workshop


Ostaad Elahi's workshop had already started work when I arrived at 7:00 AM. The weather was not as hot; I think it was only 90 degrees at 7:00 AM..... There was a total of fifteen people working; five grand masters, five intermediate masters, three apprentices, and two packers. Five had not shown up for work and Ostaad Elahi was going to let them go as soon as he finished production for his major order.

Thursday's glass unloaded from the kiln



More orders ready for packing


The five grand masters did all the major work such as preparing the form for the more complex glass shapes and putting the finishing touches at the end. These required constant placement of the blow pipe into the kiln, removing it, and cooling it, dipping it back in the hot kiln again, and then blowing, turning, and rubbing on metal. It took each one of the masters a few trips back and forth to the kiln, the rubbing tables, and the pools of water. There were eight to ten different kilns running. Each kiln had a separate function with different temperatures. After the basic shape of the glass was achieved by the master, and the temperature was right, he would give the blow pipe with the formed molten glass at the end of it to one of the apprentices who would warm it up a bit in one of the kilns and then take it to one of the intermediate masters.

Ostaad Elahi at work


The intermediate master would blow it some more, dip the form in a metal cube mold , blow it into a cube, twist it, pull it out, and then give it to one of the apprentices who would place it in one of the kilns to warm up again. The apprentice would then return the piece back to the intermediate master who would work on the shape a little more by rolling the blow pipe on a metal surface with the glass vessel sticking out in space, untouched by anything. Meanwhile, the apprentice retrieved some molten glass with another blow pipe to attach to the bottom of the vessel for removal. The intermediate master would dip his metal pliers in a container of water, drip some water onto the section attached to his blow pipe, press with his pliers, repeat a few times, and then tap on the section gently with the pliers until his blow pipe broke away from the vessel.

Intermediate master molding the glass in a metal rectangular cube


In the meantime, the vessel was attached at the bottom to the apprentices blow pipe who would roll his pipe in accordance with the master. All this required a lot of cooperation and silent understanding as to who had to do what task. From this point, the apprentice would take the vessel back to another kiln and roll it a bit to warm up again, then he would take the blow pipe with the glass piece attached to it to a master (not an intermediate one) who would in turn finish up the detail work. The vessel would then be handed to an apprentice who would place it in the cooling kiln.

The apprentices learning from the master

Five intermediate masters did the less complex work. Three apprentices did all the basic work. One apprentice had just started two days ago, but he was very quick and Ostaad Elahi said that this apprentice had just finished a two year college with a diploma in accounting and had to do military service in six months and had decided to apprentice as a glass blower for the remaining time he had. Ostaad Elahi said that this apprentice learned fast because he was educated. He did know a lot for someone who had started only a few days ago. He was twenty one years old and when he stopped for a cigarette, I went over and scolded him.

The fire is placed directly in the mold


I spent the morning at the workshop taking notes, taking pictures, and videotaping. The five grand masters were the ones from last year, but the intermediate masters were not the ones I had observed last year. I asked Ostaad Elahi about them, and he mentioned that the ones who were from Afghanistan had to go back to their country. The Iranian government has told all Afghan refugees that they need to go back now that their country is recovering. So, Ostaad Elahi gave his Afghan workers signed papers attesting them as glassblowers, and hired new ones. Each apprentice earns $5 a day. Very little money for so much work. I think the intermediate master may fetch as much as $15-20 a day, but I did not ask.

Ostaad Najaf Nejhad at work


If I feel comfortable, I will ask Ostaad Elahi on Monday when I will be interviewing him after the shop stops production at 3 PM. The information on the earnings of the apprentices was given to me by one of the masters. They feel comfortable with me and would come over and talk to me on their own. It is nice to have gained their ease around me. I asked Ostaad Elahi if he had any daughters. He said he did, and that they were interested in glassblowing and would join him in his workshop as soon as they were old enough.

Friday, July 20, 2007

Friday, July 20, 2007: Jome'eh Bazaaar and Aunts & Cousins


You can find the worst drivers in the streets of Tehran



Mom on the overpass


I woke up very early this morning and worked at my computer for a while, took care of some data organizing, and then had breakfast with Mom. We drove down to Jome'eh Bazaar, which means "Friday Bazaar". Anything and everything that you can think of is sold here. Three floors of an indoor garage are turned into a flea market and Iranians and foreigners both flock the place. Most of the things sold can be found in the regular bazaars, but it has become a popular place for Tehranis and tourists to go to. I found a few things for my friends back in the USA. I also found out that I am a much better bargainer than my own mother! I was bargaining for her!

"No, you are asking too much for these...."


We met up for lunch with my cousins at a restaurant in central Tehran and then everyone came to our place. Nanaz, my cousin whom I'm very close to, joined us later. My favorite Aunt, Aunt Fakhri, was with us also.



Mom and her sister, Aunt Fakhri, and a few of my cousins



I love my Aunt Fakhri

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Thursday, July 19, 2007: Arriving in Tehran


The view from my mother's balcony looks onto the Alborz Mountains


I arrived in Tehran this morning at around 6:10 AM. I was the second person to go through customs! My flight from New York to London via Virgin Atlantic was very good, and the flight from London to Tehran with British Airways was even better. The vegetarian meal was very spicy, but I survived.

Mom was waiting for me and we took her car back to her apartment. The weather wasn't that hot, so we stopped on the way to buy some freshly made Barbari bread from the baker. We had it with butter, jam, and tea as soon as we got home. Yummm!

A delicious Persian breakfast



I called my cousin Tus who came to visit me right away with a lovely bouquet of flowers. We had breakfast together. The view of the city of Tehran from the living room balcony is very nice. There is a blue mosque in the park in front of the building and the call to mid-day prayer filled the air as soon as it was noon.

Tomorrow is Friday and I'll not be able to visit any of the craftspeople. I will go to the bazaar instead. I'll visit the craftspeople on Saturday when work resumes.


My mother and her nephew, Tus, who is only a few years younger than her



The mosque and the view of Tehran from the balcony



My cousin Tus always brings me flowers when I arrive in Iran


I called Ostaad Elahi and Ostaad Finastian. I will be visiting Ostaad Elahi at his glassblowing studios in downtown Tehran on Saturday morning at 7 AM. Ostaad Elahi was melting glass and couldn't talk to me himself, so I spoke to Ali, his son. Ali is a young man the same age as my son, Bijhan. He was very happy to talk to me. I then called Ostaad Finastian on his cell phone. I asked him if I could come and video him some more and interview him again; he readily agreed. What a pleasant man. I thanked him for the lovely engraving he made for me. I am going to his class on Sunday morning at 9 AM.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Wednesday, July 11, 2007: Preparing for my Third Trip

I'm preparing for my third trip to Iran. Of course, it's not the third trip of my life to Iran; it is the third trip in a span of three years and similar to the other two, this trip is going to take a lot of my time doing research for my dissertation at Teachers College.