Wednesday, August 1, 2007: Preparing for Mokarrameh's Workshop

Three views of Mokarrameh's house in the village of Darikandeh in the Mazandaran Province.

I can't believe I have only ONE more week in Tehran. I can feel it in my Mother every time she talks to me that she is unhappy about my soon to come departure. I have to come for a longer stretch of time next summer. It's not worth it to come for three weeks. I have my relatives and cousins here and to top it off, have made many new acquaintances.

Tomorrow, Mom and I head off to the Caspian Sea region and the village where the house of Mokarrameh is located. I will be conducting a full day art workshop for the local people in the village on Friday. Ali Bolboli, Mokarrameh's son, has been purchasing the art supplies for our trip. We spoke on the phone a few times today to discuss our plans. We are to meet him and a few others at Eastern Bus Terminal in Tehran at 8 AM tomorrow. We will stay with him at his sister's house in the village Thursday night and Friday night and return on Saturday. So far, fifty people have signed up for the workshop! I fear more will show up at the door on the day of the workshop. Ali has written up announcements in the local papers and contacted the news agencies in Tehran. We might have to conduct a second workshop on Saturday and return on Sunday if it gets too crowded. I am very excited about this workshop.

I have been using my cousin Shahrokh's computer to post my blogs. My own computer is being repaired. Shahrokh is still in Germany and is coming back on Friday. Can't wait to see him. I don't know if I'll be able to post any blogs from Darikandeh Village, but will do my best.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007: Zanjan and back to Tehran

Last night, after I finished blogging at the Internet cafe, I took a cab and visited Ostaad Heydari at the Craft Expo in the outskirts of Zanjan. It was a great fair, with lots of vendors showing off their crafts. Ostaad Heydari had two booths set up. One manned by himself, and one by his daughter in law, Shabnam.I took a taxi to Mahmonir joon's house and had a lovely dinner with her and her family. She is such a lovely lady.

The store at the Zanjan Office of Traditional Handcraft.


I slept well in the hotel, and woke up late this morning. I walked over to the Zanjan Office for Traditional Handicrafts where Ostaad Heydari works. I interviewed him and his students. Later on, Ostaad and I went to his house for lunch. He insisted on inviting me for lunch. His wife had prepared pasta with soy granuales for me, knowing that I don't eat meat. I was really touched by her. She is a very nice woman and when I wanted to take her picture, she went into her bedroom, changed her clothes and brushed her hair.

Ostaad Heydari & Mrs. Heydari in the living room of their house.


I took the 4 PM train back to Tehran. Ostaad Heydari insisted on taking me all the way to the Bazaar where we got off the taxi, he paid the fare, and then we said our goodbyes. He went off to buy supplies for his charoughs, and I walked down the road to the train station. I have bought a few pairs of charoughs from him to bring back as gifts and also to help him out. I have promised to stay with his wife and him next time I'm in Zanjan.

Zanjan Train Station.


The train ride was tiring, but at the start of the trip, we passed through lovely countryside. No wonder the kings used to use this area for their summer residence. I don't know if I was just too tired, or it is actually a long journey, but I arrived worn out in Tehran. I took a cab at 8 PM and came home. Mom was very happy to see me. It was obvious she missed me a lot. (She called me at my mobile phone about 4, maybe 5 times while I was in Zanjan.


Fields of Zanjan province from the train.


Glad to be back in Tehran. I'm exhausted...