Monday, July 30, 2007: Zanjan and Ostaad Heydari

Inside the train to Zanjan.


I took the train at six this morning. Mom came with me to the train station to see me off. The train was so clean. I paid $6.60 for a round trip ticket to Zanjan. They gave us passengers earphones, breakfast, and newspapers. We watched a movie on the flat screen and could listen to a choice of songs! It took us four and a half hours to get to Zanjan.

I walked to the Museum where Ostaad Heydari works. The guard at the door, whom I remembered from last year, greeted me and told me that Ostaad Heydari's workshop has been moved to the Zanjan Office of Traditional Handcraft. A shame since the museum exposed him and his craft to tourists. The guard gave me the directions to the office and by the time I got off the taxi, Ostaad Heydari was waiting for me in the street! The guard had called him and told him of my coming.

Ostaad Heydari and two students.


Once in the building, Ostaad Heydari took me around and introduced me to the other Ostaads and to his new students. A few traditional workshops were set up with both students and masters at work: woodworking, silversmith, carpet weaving, charough, etc. I interviewed Ostaad Heydari and a few of his students at length and interestingly, his students praised Ostaad Heydari for his patience and easy manner, a thing I noticed immediately last year when I visited him for the first time. I gave Ostaad Heydari the book on shoes throughout the times that I had purchased for him in the USA and after he looked at it, everyone wanted to have a look. Ostaad Heydari liked the book very much and was coming up with ideas for shoes. He told me the shellac I had sent him was very good and he wouldn't stop thanking me. I'm glad I was able to help him. Later on, Ostaad insisted on taking me to his house for lunch where I met his wife, daughter, and son in law. He wanted me to stay the night, but I felt better staying at a hotel.


Zanjan from my hotel window.


Before heading off the the Craft Expo, I stopped at the Internet cafe where worked from last year. I didn't have any problems opening up blogger, but I've been having much difficulty at home lately. I posted a few entries and then took a cab to the Expo.

Zanjan Craft Expo.

Ostaad Heydari and his giant Charough.


At the Craft Expo, Ostaad Heydari had two booths; one manned by him, and the other by his daughter in law, Shabnam. Lovely works of art! Ostaad had his giant charough on display and people were stopping by to admire it. There were all sorts of booths: local and national handicrafts plus an abundance of carpet dealers.

View of Zanjan from the Craft Fair.


Later on, I went over to Zari's aunt, Mahmonir joon, and had a lovely dinner at her place. Her daughters and grandchildren, plus two friends of the family were there. What a lovely lady. She had cooked such a wonderful meal for me. One of her nephews gave me a ride back to my hotel. Mahmonir joon has a traditional house which dates back over half a century and the government has declared it a historical building.

Mahmonir Joon in the garden of her house in Zanjan.